 | Sarek/Padjelanta 2005, Solitary hike. Darreluoppal cabins on the border between Badjelánnda and Sarek through the valleys Sarvesvágge (and Guohpervágge in Sarek to Rijtsem) | |
 his autumn I (Claes) made another solitary hike in SAREK, in the end of August. The plan was to be out in about one and a half week, I had food with me for 11 days in the mountains. I should continue to explore the west part of Sarek NP, from Padjelanta NP; helicopter from Kvikkjokk to the Darreluoppal cabins and then straight north to the valley Sarvesvágge. Further through that valley to the valley Ráhpavágge in the center of Sarek, wade over that river, then parallel to the Ráhpavágge, up to the Mikka Cabin. Then through Guohpervágge and the Southside of the mountain Gisuris, the valley Sierggavágge, towards the peak Niják and finally Badjelánnda trail the Akka cabins and the boat to Rijtsem. Planning is one thing the reality can be another, as you will se below. From this Journal and on I shall try to use the local Sami names on places, mountains, rivers, etc. |
MONDAY 22 and TUESDAY August 23 (Day 1) Helicopter from Kvikkjokk to the Darreluoppal cabins and 6 km (3.7 mile) hike in towards Sarvesvágge.
I took the night train on Monday evening from Stockholm to Murjek's railway station, and then the bus to Jokkmokk and change bus and then to Kvikkjokk. In Kvikkjokk I got of the buss at the heliport. The trip with the Helicopter was nice and I took a lot of aerial photos during the flight, its beautiful views flying over Padjelanta NP. After 20 minutes flight we arrived at the Darreluoppal cabins. This day’s stage took me 6 km (3.7 mile) to the north on my way to the Sarvesvágge, my entrance to the heart of Sarek. |
WEDNESDAY August 24 (Day 2) The West part of Sarvesvágge (16 km, 9.9 mile)
This day I continued to walk to the north to the hillock Tjågnårisvárásj were I turned to the east in to the big valley Sarvesvágge. I went down to the bottom of the valley and then followed it to the waterdivider and a couple of kilometers further. The weathe was quite good during the day but in the evening it started to rain. |
THURSDAY August 25 (Day 3) The East part of Sarvesvágge (7 km, 4.4 mile)
It had been raining quite much during the night and didn't stop during the day. My plan was to reach the Ráhpa River that I was hoping to cross the next morning. But things don’t always go as you wish. After 7 km, 4.4 mile, I had to stop because of a river, Ridánjunjes-jågåsj, impossible to safely cross. The water pressure was way to hard due to all the rain. I decided to wait and try again next morning (there usually is less water in the mountain rivers in the mornings) so I pitched the tent. The situation in the river got worse during the evening and the rapid stream started to pull rocks along. I could hear rocks slamming into each other in the water. Hoped for less rain, otherwise I will have to turn back.
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FRIDAY August 26 (Day 4) Back to the waterdivider in Sarvesvágge. (11 km, 6.8 mile)
When I waked up I saw that the situation in the river
was as it was the night before. I don’t put my feet in such a river! I had a close encounter with one gigantic reindeer bull, coming from the reindeer heard that like me didn't dare to wade across the river. He came a long way just to check me out. After mature consideration I decided to discontinue my Sarek hike and turn back to the Darreluoppal cabins. The rain continued to pour down and the Sarvesvágge was like a swamp. I walked back to the waterdivider and then on for a couple of kilometers before I pitched the tent. I hoped to reach Darreluoppal cabins next evening |
SATURDAY August 27 (Day 5) Form the waterdivider in Sarvesvágge to the Darreluoppal cabins. (18 km, 11,2 mile)
This day started with rain but in the morning the weather was quite good. The rivercrossings was a bit tougher then on my way in. After leaving the valley and turning to the south at the hillock Tjågnårisvárásj the weather changed and it started to rain. The last 5 kilometers down to the Darreluoppal cabins was awful
with a major thunder and hailstorm and a lot of osierbush. This night a have sleeping accommodation in a cabin. I spent the evening getting my gear dry and spend time with other hikers in the cabins. In the evening the sky cleared up and I had a bright moonlight. |
SUNDAY August 28 (Day 6) The Badjelánnda trail from the Darreluoppal cabins to the Duottar cabins. (11 km, 6.8 mile)
I rested in the morning and started walking at 2 pm. The first obstacle on the trail was a steep hill. On the top the trail was easier to walk, and the surroundings was beautiful, typical Badjelánnda terrain with low hills and small ponds of water in between. I had a couple of showers but they were short.When I was about half way to the next cabins I started to feel ill, and it got worse every kilometer. The last kilometer to the cabins I stumbled along on sheer will. I think I have fever and are totally exhausted. I don’t know what it is but I hope that it will be over tomorrow, I won't be able to continue and walk 20 km 12,4 mi if I feel as ill as I do now. I will of course sleep indoors tonight too. |
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MONDAY August 29 (Day 7) At the Duottar cabins. 
I slept all morning and I still don’t feel any better. I'm weak, have fever, and high pulse rate. If I’m going any ware I have to walk in slow motion to manage to walk at all. The cabin hostess and her fiancé are very helpful and have fetched water and made me some tea. The weather is still ugly and it has been raining most of the time.After taking something to reduce the fever I felt a little bit better during the afternoon good enough to make me some food. But the fever came back in the evening and I'm beginning to worry. If I can't start to walk tomorrow I'm not going to be able to catch the train I have booked tickets for. If I have to wait another day I perhaps can go to Staloloukta and try to get room on a helicopter back to Kvikkjokk.
               
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During the night I got worse and I got diarrhea and had to "run" to the outhouse often, as soon as I eat or drank I had to go, I wasn't able to keep anything. Finally I got a clue of what was wrong with me: I was suffering from some kind of stomach disorder, bad water from some flooded stream in Sarek or perhaps old water in the bucket in the Darreluoppal cabin.
